Troubleshooting / FAQ

Here are some common questions we recieve and some possible solutions to try before requesting service. If your problem still persists contact our service department online or call them at 1-800-488-4426.


DISHWASHER


WASHER


ELECTRIC DRYER


GAS DRYER


MICROWAVE


RANGE

REFRIGERATOR


DISPOSER


FREEZER


ICEMAKER


TRASH COMPACTOR


VENTILATION





DISHWASHER

 Dishwasher will not start

  • Check power at outlet. Should be 110 volts.

  • Make sure door is latched.

  • Make sure timer is set and/or buttons pushed in all the way.

  • Check water source to make sure water is on.

  • Check connections from power cord to terminal block.

  • Check door switch for action and/or clicking noise.

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Dishwasher will not complete a cycle

  • Make sure timer is not on "temperature boost" or "delayed start" setting.

  • Check water temperature - On some cycles D/W will run till water is hot.

  • Make sure D/W has filled with water.

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Dishwasher will not fill with water

  • Check water supply valve

  • Make sure door is closed and latched

  • Water supply line could be plugged

  • Check screen in water solenoid valve

  • Check float switch

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Dishwasher will not drain

  • Check for hose kinks or food plugging drain hose.

  • If you have installed a new garbage disposal, check knock-out plug in disposer.

  • If dishwasher is hooked up to a food waste disposer, run the disposer to clear the drain system.

  • Check air gap.

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My dishes are not dry

  • Check the heat dry option.

  • Check to see if the rinse aid dispenser needs filling.

  • Check the incoming water temperature.

  • Check for proper loading.

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Water leaks from door

  • Check door seal.

  • Check corner seals or bottom flange gasket.

  • Make sure there is dishes loaded ... can spray out door when empty. Check for loose or bent door latch.

  • Check for proper type of soap.

  • Check for over filling.

  • Check for split spay arm or support.

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Water leaks from bottom

  • Check for damaged hoses.

  • Check for loose hose clamps.

  • Check water valve and connections.

  • Check for holes in tub.

  • Check inlet air gap for mineral buildup.

  • Check heater leads for worn or damaged gaskets.

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Dishwasher will not get dishes clean

  • Check to make sure dishwasher is draining after each cycle.

  • Check water temperature. (should be 135 F minimum)

  • Make sure the detergent is not old. (it won't dissolve)

  • Make sure dishes are loaded properly.

  • Make sure nothing is blocking detergent dispenser.

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WASHERS

Washer doesn't run.

  • Proper power supply.

  • Unplugged or defective cord.

  • Blown fuse or circuit breaker.

  • Kinked water supply or drain hose

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Washer doesn't fill.

  • Blocked water inlet screens.

  • Clogged filters

  • A kink in one of the hoses

  • Timer that is not set

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Oversudsing

  • Oversudsing causes leaks and blocks drains. To reduce the suds, pour 1/2 cup white vinegar mixed with some cold water into the washer without clothes. Next time, use less detergent (try low-suds type).

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My washer won't drain.

  • Is the drain hose kinked?

  • Does the lid switch click when closing?

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Washer won't fill or fills slowly

  • Is the water hose kinked?

  • Could there be sediment in the screens of the hoses? Undo the hoses at each end to check.

  • Look into the valve at the back of the washer with the hoses removed. There are filter screens which could be clogged. They can be easily cleaned with a turkey baster. Use it as you would a baby syringe, sucking the sediment off the conical screens. Do not remove these screens for any reason!

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Fills and drains simultaneously

  • If your washing machine tends to fill and drain at the same time, it could mean your drain hose is too low. This causes siphoning, a natural process which is gravity-related. The rule of thumb here is to always have the drain hose in a standpipe which is taller than your highest water level. A safe level would be 38" from the floor.

  • Never seal off a washer drain because your drain is sluggish. Have it cleaned professionally. Sealing off a washer hose will cause pump failure in a short time, not to mention wear and tear on the clutch and basket drive parts. 

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Oil Spots on the Clothes

  • Oil spots on your laundry are usually the result of a bad seal around the agitator shaft. This causes water to leave the tub and run down into the transmission. Since the transmission oil is physically lighter than water, it leaves the transmission and floats into the tub. At the same time, water stays in the transmission. The only fix is a new transmission and seal. This is a very expensive and difficult repair, and the cost may not be worth doing on an older unit.

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Machine rattles, shakes or walks

  • Washer needs leveling

  • Your washer may be alive.

  • Floor may be weak

  • Make sure all shipping bolts and/or straps are removed

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ELECTRIC DRYER

Dryer will not run, "Dead"

  • Check to make sure both sides of electrical breaker are set.

  • Check door switch - does it click - does it make contact with door?

  • Check push to start switch.

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Dryer will not heat

  • Check circuit breakers or fuses - make sure both sides of breaker are set.

  • Make sure timer or selector switch is on a heat setting.

  • Check your venting - heater has to have proper airflow to function.

  • Make sure motor and blower are operating - heater won't come on without air flow.

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Clothes not completely drying

  • Check all air flow ducts for blockage.

  • Check lint screen.

  • Make sure both sides of breaker are set

  • Double check settings on timer and control switch

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Dryer will not shut off, long dry time

  • Make sure dryer is drying the clothes.

  • Check lint filter.

  • Check to see if timer is advancing - try time dry setting.

  • Check Venting

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GAS DRYER

Dryer will not run, "Dead"

  • Check to make sure dryer is plugged in.

  • Make sure door is closed all the way.

  • Check power at outlet. Should read 110/120 volts.

  • Check door switch - does it click - does it make contact with door.

  • Check push to start switch.

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Dryer will not heat

  • Make sure timer or selector switch is on a heat setting.

  • Check your venting - burner has to have proper airflow to function.

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Clothes not completely drying

  • Check all air flow ducts for blockage.

  • Check lint screen.

  • Double check settings on timer and control switch

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Dryer will not shut off, long dry time

  • Make sure dryer is drying the clothes normally.

  • Check your lint filter.

  • Check all exterior venting and ducts for air flow.

  • Check to see if timer is advancing - try a time dry setting.

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MICROWAVE

Totally dead oven

  • No power to outlet, check GFCI

  • Blown main fuse - likely due to other problems.

  • Clock needs to be set before other functions will operate (some models).

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No response to any buttons on touchpad

  • Door is not closed (some models).

  • Waited to long (open and close door to wake it up).

  • Controller is confused (pull plug for a minute or two to reset).

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Over-the-Range Microwave Ventilation Questions

 


RANGE

Oven not heating

  • Check breaker to make sure both sides are set.

  • If you have self-clean or time set cooking - make sure clock is in "manual" mode.

  • If you have separate selector knob, make sure it's set for bake or broil.

  • Check oven element for breaks.

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Oven too hot

  • Thermostat could be out of calibration.

  • Oven temperature knob could be broken and in wrong position.

  • Uneven cooking: Food burns on one side, but not done on the other

  • Check level of oven

  • Check oven door gasket.

  • Make sure pans are located properly in middle of oven

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Range top elements won't heat

  • Check breakers to make sure both sides are set.

  • Check top elements for any visable breaks or holes.

  • If elements are plug in type, make sure element is plugged in all the way.

  • If elements are plug in type, unplug and check tips of plug for arching or burning.

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Door lock problems

  • Need about an hour or more to cool down

  • Bent latch on oven

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REFRIGERATOR

Refrigerator will not run

  • Check power at wall socket.

  • Check power cord to refrigerator.

  • Check to see if compressor is running.

  • Check for low voltage condition. Low voltage conditions can be caused by extension cords. Remove and plug in direct if possible.

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Refrigerator compressor runs, but will not get cold

  • Check for lint in condensor coils.

  • Evaporator coils (inside freezer wall/floor) could be iced up. This indicates a "defrost" problem, which includes def. timer, limiter, and def. heater.

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Compressor runs for just a few seconds, then clicks off

  • Check for low voltage conditions. (Extension cord, etc...)

  • Check for lint in condenser coils.

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Compressor runs all the time

  • If everything is freezing in refer side, check thermostat. (Cold control).

  • Make sure refrigerator is not located in extreme heat.

  • Check door gaskets for air leaks.

  • Check door switch - interior light may be staying on

  • New start up or large amounts of warm food placed in refer, allow 24 hours to cool down and stabilization of temperature.

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Freezer is too warm

  • Check settings on controls.

  • Check thermostat. (Cold control)

  • Check freezer door gasket.

  • Check freezer compartment fan.

  • Several non-frozen items have recently been to freezer.

  • Check for air vents inside freezer for restrictions.

  • Warm food will cause the freezer to run more until the desired temperature is reached.

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Taste and Odors

  • Ice or food has a bad taste or odor. Ice and uncovered foods can pick up odors or taste from strong smelling foods in the refrigerator or freezer. Cover foods tightly and discard old ice.

  • Ice tastes like plastic. Plastic water lines will give off a taste when first used. It takes one or two containers of ice for plastic to stop leeching. Discard initial container of ice after installation.

  • Certain containers and wrapping papers produce odors. Use a different container or brand of wrapping paper.

  • Foods with strong odors are in the freezer. Cover the food tightly.

  • Interior needs to be cleaned. Clean interior with sponge, warm water, and baking soda

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Makes Odd Noises

  • A high-pitched whine -- from energy-efficient compressors that have smaller, higher speed motors;

  • A soft hum -- from the evaporator fan in the freezer and/or condenser fan under the refrigerator;

  • Clicks -- from the automatic defrost timer's switching on and off, the thermostat's turning the refrigerator on and off, or the water valve's refilling the icemaker;

  • Boiling or gurgling/trickling water -- from the refrigerant circulating in the sealed system or the trickling of defrost water into the drain pan when the refrigerator shuts off

  • Running water and thuds -- from the filling of the ice cube tray and ice cubes' falling into the storage bin.

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Icemaker Questions

 


DISPOSER

Disposer Tips

  • Always use cold water when grinding food. This breaks up greasy substances rather than melting them, as hot water would. Melted grease only hardens a short way down the pipes as it cools, and eventually becomes a source of blockage.

  • Cleaning Procedures: Fill grind chamber with ice cubes from freezer Add 1 cup of rock salt (ice cream salt) Cover opening with stopper...do not run water. Start the disposer and let it run until grinding noise stops. (about 5 seconds) Remove the stopper and flush unit with cold water while running for 10 seconds. This will sharpen the blades and removes residual crud from the interior!

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FREEZER

Will not run

  • Check power at wall socket.

  • Check power cord

  • Check to see if compressor is running.

  • Check for low voltage condition. Low voltage conditions can be caused by extension cords. Remove and plug in direct if possible.

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Odor in freezer

  • Certain containers and wrapping papers produce odors. Use a different container or brand of wrapping paper.

  • Foods with strong odors are in the freezer. Cover the food tightly.

  • Interior needs to be cleaned. Clean interior with sponge, warm water, and baking soda

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Freezer is too warm

  • Check settings on controls.

  • Check thermostat. (Cold control)

  • Check freezer door gasket.

  • Check freezer compartment fan.

  • Several non-frozen items have recently been to freezer.

  • Check for air vents inside freezer for restrictions.

  • Warm food will cause the freezer to run more until the desired temperature is reached.

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Ice or frost built-up inside freezer

  • Door/lid is kept open too long or is opened too frequently.Open the door/lid less often.

  • Freezer should be defrosted.

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Freezer runs too much or too long

  • Consider chaining it up.

  • Control is set too cold. Turn the Control knob to a lower number. Allow 24 hours for the temperature to stabilize.

  • Door/lid is kept open too long or is opened too frequently. Warm air enters the freezer whenever the door/lid is opened. Try to open less often.

  • Freezer gasket is dirty, worn, cracked or poorly fitted. Clean or change gasket. Leaks in a gasket will cause freezer to run longer in order to maintain desired temperature.

  • Freezer had recently been disconnected for a period of time. Freezer required 24 hours to cool down completely.

  • Freezer is larger and has colder temperatures than the previous one owned. This is normal. Larger units require longer running time.

  • Large amounts of warm or hot food have been stored recently. Warm food will cause the freezer to run more until the desired temperature is reached.

  • Room or outside weather is hot or room temperature is too cold. It is normal for the freezer to work harder under these conditions.

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ICEMAKER

There's no ice

  • It may be turned off. Look for the wire (bail arm) along the right side of the ice maker that looks a bit like a coat hanger. If the wire is in the raised position, the ice maker is turned off.

  • Chunk of ice blocking the sweeper arms or bail arm

  • Freezer may not be cold enough. Temperature must be 5 F. or colder to work properly.

  • Water supply valve may be blocked or restricted. Supply valve must have a 1/4" opening for water to fully supply ice maker.

  • Water supply valve may not be open. Find and open the supply valve.

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Small or too few ice cubes

  • The water line that's attached to the back of the refrigerator. Make sure you have good water flow.

  • Check the freezer temperature. If should be 8 degrees Fahrenheit or lower. If the freezer is too warm, the ice maker won't cycle properly.

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Ice maker - not making enough ice.

  • Freezer may not be cold enough. Temperature must be 5 degrees (Fahrenheit) or colder to work properly.

  • Normal ice making capacity. The ice maker will produce between 2.5 to 4.0 pounds of ice a day depending on your model. Side-by-side models come with a large ice bucket and it may take up to three days to fill this container.

  • Water supply valve may not be completely open. Open valve completely.

  • Water supply valve may be blocked by foreign material or may not be large enough. Supply valve must have a 1/4" opening for water to fully supply ice maker. Many self-piercing valves do not have this big of an opening. Replace water supply valve with one that has a 1/4" opening.

  • Water filter may need changing. If equipped with a water filter, replace filter canister or cartridge.

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Ice maker will not shut off

  • Make sure ice container is in correct position under ice maker and that no cubes are stuck on the wire signal arm. Remove cube holding arm and reposition container.

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Cubes are stuck together

  • Long periods of non-use will cause cubes to melt into each other during the defrost cycles. Shake ice container frequently or discard ice.

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TRASH COMPACTOR

Trash Compactor Tips

  • Avoid compacting large objects, like wine bottles or half-liter jugs, which will jam the mechanism.

  • Fill the bin completely before compacting. If bin is empty, wait till it is full before cycling unit.

  • If unit should stop midway thru cycle, try pressing firmly on the top of the door while turning key...sometimes you can free the jam.

  • Never substitute regular compactor bags for plastic trash can liners, as they can jam the mechanism.

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VENTILATION

How often should I clean the filters?

  • Your grease filter should be washed in hot water with detergent once a month. Make sure the filter is completely dry before reinstalling. Replace the grease filter if it becomes damaged, or too dirty to clean.

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Can I clean my charcoal odor filter?

  • NO. Charcoal odor filters cannot be washed and must be discarded and replaced when they become noticeably dirty, have stopped filtering the odors, or at least once per year.

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How can I test my vent to see if it works?

  • Turn the stove burners off.

  • Cut an 8” x 8” square of paper or newspaper.

  • Turn on the vent fan and hold the paper square over the vent filter.

  • If the vent holds the paper in place, it’s working well. Otherwise, it may be clogged or the ductwork to the outside may be too long which can cause poor ventilation.

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My hood is operating but the air is moving slower than normal?

  • Check the filter for build up and clean or replace if needed. If the difficulty still persists, check for obstructions in the ductwork. A common obstruction is build up in the roof or wall cap such as birds nests or other debris.

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